Microwave design in America infuriates me ever since moving over here.
Used to be you just press the number for how long you want, and then enter the power and 30% power meant max power for 3 seconds, then off for 7.
Then they stopped turning on the microwave when you press a number and you had to find “cook time” among the 15 different buttons for specific types of food that never turns out right or require you to look up a chart, it was faster to just press “add 30 seconds” 8 times.
Then they removed the “add 30 seconds” button.
Every evolution was more expensive and fancier, but replaced the most basic functions with things that I have literally never used or heard of somebody using.
Then I came to asia and half the microwaves have two dials: Time and power, and power actually lowered the heat instead of just boiling and then letting it wait for 10 seconds.
This is exactly what my experience has been, although I still have the “add time” buttons. Don’t forget that half the buttons are inaccessible unless you have the door open. I have no idea why anyone would design a microwave this way.
30% power meant max power for 3 seconds, then off for 7.
This is true for most microwaves unfortunately. Panasonic’s use an invertor however so you get genuine reduced power vs % of time at max power.
Okay; lot’s of memey answers here.
But I saw a video from “Technology Connections” and as I understand it most popcorn buttons are just timers.
However some microwaves have weight sensors and hydrometers. Most microwave buttons suck but some are actually good.
Another thing to watch out for a new microwave is whether or not low power mode means 20% power or 100% power 20% of the time.
Another thing to watch out for a new microwave is whether or not low power mode means 20% power or 100% power 20% of the time.
Is that even a thing? I’m under the impression that magnometers have to be run at full power, and all you can change is how frequently they are on during the cycle (which is never the full time, even at 100%)
I think it’s modern technology allows switching on and off the magnetron so fast that it’s effectively 20% power, kinda like PWM on a LED. Versus older cheaper technology that just switches on and off every second or two
Inverter models can modulate their output power. They’re better and consequently more expensive.
Look for the word inverter. An inverter microwave can actually adjust its output power. Expect to pay a bit more but the cooking is better and if you have a circuit in heavy use it can let you run the microwave at half power and the toaster at the same time.
Long ago, Popcorn Button dishonoured himself and his family by breaking his word. Popcorn challenged him to battle, but Popcorn Button was a coward, and fled. Popcorn pursued him across valleys and over mountains, to the edge of the sea. There, Popcorn fought Popcorn Button for twelve days and twelve nights. No clear victor emerged, and the feud continues to this day.
It was one of the very first early tests to see how much the powers that be could dick with the general population. Quite a lot, as it turned out. /s
I use the popcorn button every time I make a bag. The sensor has never worked and I just have to pull the bag when the popping slows down, but the button sets a three minute timer and starts the microwave, it’s easier than setting the timer and hitting start like I had to on my old microwave…the struggle is real /s
As a single datapoint ….
I decided to spend a little more on my microwave and looked for:
- 1200w, highest power supported on a standard outlet
- reputable brand
- big enough for a platter, not just a plate
- +30s button, by far the most commonly used
I see 15 “specialty” buttons )yes, including a popcorn button); I find auto-defrost useful but never use the rest.
Worth the cost: it’s over ten years old, maybe 15, and still as good as new
This is a great explainer on that topic
Came here to mention this. The whole video is worth watching, but the short version is that some machines have a sensor that detects when steam releases from the bag and automatically stops then.
The problem is that there might be a difference of a few seconds depending on which way the popcorn bag is facing when it pops open. So you should still listen for when the popping slows down.
I use an app called popcorn expert from the old site I think that hears the popcorn pop and lets me know when to stop the microwave, nvr burned it
Steam.
The answer is steam. Some microwaves have a humidity sensor that measures the amount of moisture released by food during cooking. Using that information, the microwave can estimate when the food is done and, in some models, adjust the cooking time automatically. For example, certain microwaves use this technology for sensor-cooking programs designed for potatoes, vegetables, or other foods.
Unfortunately, these features have largely turned into marketing gimmicks. They help sell microwaves more than they necessarily help cook food correctly. Many models no longer include genuine humidity-sensing technology, and the single-food buttons on cheaper models are often nothing more than preset cooking times and power levels.
People buy appliances based on how they look and how well they can show them off to others. Very few consider how a feature actually works, whether it serves a practical purpose, or whether it offers any real benefit over a less expensive appliance.
Here are a few other questionable marketing gimmicks in modern appliances:
Refrigerator air filters: These can reduce certain odors, but their effectiveness varies. The problem is that manufacturers turn them into another recurring expense for the owner, even when their practical benefit is limited.
RFID water filters: Some refrigerators use authentication chips to reject compatible aftermarket filters that lack the required RFID identification. This does not necessarily mean the manufacturer’s filter provides better filtration; it can simply mean you are locked into buying that particular brand.
Self-cleaning ovens: The high-temperature pyrolytic cleaning cycle is a legitimate feature, but it can put considerable thermal stress on components, particularly door locks, thermal fuses, and control electronics. As an appliance repair technician, I can tell you that this feature helps keep people like me in business.
Air fry versus convection: Air frying is essentially a form of convection cooking. Both use a fan to circulate hot air around the food. Air fryers and air-fry modes can differ in fan speed, airflow design, and heating configuration, but the underlying principle is the same. Manufacturers have simply found another way to market a familiar technology.
Coffee machines built into refrigerator water dispensers: Another feature that adds complexity, cost, and additional components to an appliance that already has enough things to break.
Android tablets built into refrigerator doors: You do not need a tablet on your refrigerator. At all. You can enjoy the technology if you want, but integrating a general-purpose computer into an appliance creates another potential point of failure and another expensive component to replace when the refrigerator itself may still have years of useful life left.
Wi-Fi connectivity in washing machines and dishwashers: What exactly do you need it for? You have been washing clothes and dishes your entire life without an internet connection. You do not need a notification telling you that a cycle has finished. You can check the appliance yourself.
The appliance industry has become increasingly focused on adding features that look impressive on a showroom floor rather than improving the fundamental functions of the product. I would much rather have a well-built appliance with reliable components, straightforward controls, and inexpensive replacement parts than a refrigerator with a tablet, a washing machine connected to the internet, or an oven that requires a technician after running its self-cleaning cycle.
Build better appliances. Make them reliable, repairable, and affordable to maintain. Stop confusing more features with better engineering.
Source: I’m an appliance repair tech for 22 years.
Can I bitch about something since you’re an appliance repair tech (not at you, just with you)?
GE french-door fridge, freezer. Less than 3-years-old. Freezer drawer.
Evap fan goes out. It’s pretty corroded. I do wonder if someone spilled something in the back of fridge but I can’t see a sign of residue beside the corrosion (Still, no protective shroud above the fan from fluids dripping down the back). Bench-tested it; dead. Condensate drain seems fine. Order $100 replacement. Still doesn’t turn on. I know control boards can fail from a result of this, too. I check output power from board, and it all seems good. Tested new fan; it’s good too.
Before this, I realize the evaporator connector harness is flush with the floor of the fridge and downstream of the condensate drain pan. Water literally pooled in the 6-prong connector harness that is sealed into the floor of the freezer. Dried it out, cleaned it off as best as I could with CRC QD cleaner, etc. but I’m not getting the same voltage I’m getting on the 12V red from the board – closer to 6 – which I can only deduce means a short or corroded connector underneath the freezer… So now gotta cut it out.
I’m not the only one who’s had issues with this, and it reallllllly feels not just like a poor design but planned obsolescence.
The sad thing is that as far as I can tell, GE is probably still the best fridge company for bang for buck? Maybe LG or BOSCH if willing to pay premium?
Yes, GE has been doing this recently, and they are also the company behind the RFID water filters, which are massively unpopular.
Planned obsolescence is absolutely something that occurs in modern appliances, and they seem to be becoming increasingly prevalent over the last year, at least from what I have observed.
I also encountered this issue with a four-year-old, bottom-freezer, French-door GE refrigerator. I was unable to supply power to the evaporator fan motor in the freezer section, and we ultimately had to condemn the refrigerator.
There are several things to unpack here. For starters, the motor operates at 12 volts, so I cannot simply drill through the back wall, run a few wires, and get the fan running normally like I could in the good old days. You are just out of luck.
What bothers me most, though, is that I do not understand the logic behind planned obsolescence. There is absolutely no guarantee that this customer will go out and buy another GE refrigerator. In fact, they are much more likely to buy anything other than GE after experiencing this kind of failure in a four-year-old appliance.
So, I have to assume this is incompetence rather than planned obsolescence.
In general, I currently recommend GE and LG appliances, particularly here in the United States. I do not recommend Bosch refrigerators, despite the company’s excellent reputation. Bosch makes the best dishwashers on the market, hands down, and I recommend Bosch dishwashers without hesitation.
The problem with Bosch refrigerators is not necessarily reliability. It is parts availability. Although the refrigerators themselves can be reliable, obtaining replacement parts in the United States can be extremely difficult. Parts are discontinued far too quickly, and the domestic supply chain can be practically nonexistent.
I can end up with a two- or three-year-old Bosch refrigerator that needs a water inlet valve, only to discover that the part has already been discontinued in the United States and is no longer available through the domestic supply chain.
An appliance is only as serviceable as the parts available to repair it. Reliability means very little if you cannot obtain the components needed to keep the appliance running.
Thanks for writing this :)
Want to come over and look at my microwave?
You started a pyrolithic self clean on your microwave over the WiFi again, didn’t you?
Lol 😂😂.
No.
If you had to buy a new stove top oven, what would you buy? Standard consumer sized one
If you mean a cooktop, I would recommend keeping it as simple as possible. Do not fall for the touchscreen crap. If it does not have knobs, I would stay away from it.
Personally, I would also avoid appliances made by Whirlpool Corporation. In my experience, they are genuinely poor products and not worth the headache. That means being cautious about Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Amana, and JennAir, which are all part of the same corporate family.
In my opinion, Frigidaire makes some of the best cooking appliances on the market, and you really cannot go wrong with LG, either. LG makes genuinely good appliances across the board. If you have heard horror stories about LG, I would take them with a grain of salt. They have their problems, like every manufacturer, but their reputation for making bad appliances is not consistent with my experience as a repair technician.
shrinkflation. original popcorn bags =~ 3.5oz.
today : as low as 1.1oz up to 3.3oz.the machine was programmed for a certain volume of food. it changed. most machine’s have an adjustment for amount of food. there’s only one variable on the machine we change - time.
This is the house brand from LIDL. Cheaper than the name brand, larger packaging and both contain fat, salt and corn.
The fats in those things might as well be bearing grease.
Liability.
Theres a technology connections video for that https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Limpr1L8Pss
if it burns down your house they can say they told you to not to use it and not be held liable
Love that podcast
And Alec from technology Connections is a guest in it!
I use the popcorn button anyway and never have any problems. I think the popcorn makers just want to spite the microwave makers.
Some microwaves have a humidity sensor that determines if the popcorn is done and it works well.
Some microwaves have a preset cooking schedule for microwave popcorn and it doesn’t work for all types.
Personally if I’m making microwave popcorn, I just set it to 99:99 and wait for the popping to stop.
I would recommend setting it to something like 6–8 minutes instead so that if something prevents you from being there to take it out when done (bathroom emergency, etc.) you don’t potentially burn your home down
I think it’s more that the popcorn maker can’t guarantee that you won’t burn their popcorn, or wind up with half a bag of un-popped kernels, by using your microwave’s internal settings. The warning is, “we take no responsibility for the outcome, if you press that button”.
Because microwave popcorn sucks? Haha
I swear by the Costco stuff
I switched to stove top loose kernels but that was due to the 2010’s PFAS scare with microwave popcorn bags. USA banned it so Costco/Kirkland should be safe.
Canada is still lagging behind a little so I’d look for PFAS-free labelling here.
